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Emollients - Texturing oleogels

INCI: Soybean Glycerides (and) Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Unsaponifiables
CAS#: 91744-20-6 (and) 225

LIPEX® L’sens™

Lipex L’sens is a highly polar, semi-solid oleogel derived from a unique combination of soybean glycerides and shea butter unsaponifiables.

It has high substantivity to both hair and skin and is an excellent vegan alternative to lanolin as it shares similar properties regarding touch, structure, gloss, film-forming, and water-absorbing capacities.

Lipex L’sens combines well with other vegetable-based emollients and emulsifiers and most synthetic and mineral oil-based materials used in cosmetics. It also has good compatibility with waxes typically used in lipstick formulations.

LIPEX® L’sens™ LIPEX® L’sens™

Fact file

 

Appearance: Yellow-colored paste
Solid fat content at 35°C: 1%
Slip melting point: 36°C
Oxidative stability index (110°C): >100 hours
Refractive index (at 60°C): 1.458
Recommended applications: skin care, hair care, lip care and lipsticks
Recommended partner products: LIPEX® SheaSoft TR™, LIPEX® Bassol C™, LIPEX® SheaLiquid TR™, LIPEX® SheaSolve™

 

Use in skin care applications

 

Typical use concentrations

 

1–3% for lotions and creams, 1–6% for body butters.

 

Features and benefits

 

  • Film-forming properties improve moisturization and deliver a silky-soft after-feel to the skin. When used as a component of the emollient phase in body care, an in-vivo study shows Lipex L’sens improves skin barrier properties and significantly reduces trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL).
  • The high polarity controls texture in emulsion formulations, increasing spreadability and enhancing sensory benefits.
  • The high polarity also makes Lipex L’sens suitable for use in o/w and w/o formulations when combined with suitable emulsifiers.

 

In-vivo moisturization study

 

lipex-l-sens-graph

 

Use in lip care and lipsticks

 

Typical use concentrations

 

Typical use concentrations: 1–10% for lip balms, 1–5% for lipsticks.

 

Features and benefits

 

  • Film-forming properties improve softening and moisturizing benefits
  • The polar character ensures uniform pigment dispersion
  • A high refractive index contributes to a gloss effect on the lips
  • High viscosity ensures long-term adhesion of the formulation to the lips

Use in hair care

 

Typical use concentrations

 

0.5–1% for rinse-off conditioners, 1–2% for leave-in conditioners, 1–5% for styling products.

 

Features and benefits

 

  • High spreadability combined with good adhesion makes it ideal for hair conditioning treatments. An in-vitro study shows it outperforms placebo and synthetic benchmarks in reducing wet combing force.
  • High polarity controls texture in emulsion formulations to deliver a rich, creamy appearance and enhanced aesthetics.

 

Reduction in wet combing force

lipex-l-sens-graph-02-new

 

In vitro efficacy study of Lipex emollients versus synthetic and placebo benchmarks in rinse-off conditioners. “Mix” is a 1:1 blend of LIPEX® SheaSolve™ and LIPEX® L’sens™.

 

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