Emollients – Emollient Esters

INCI: Ethyl Oleate, Ethyl Stearate
CAS#: 1456887-14-1

LIPEX® SheaLuxe TR™

This climate-compensated, fully traceable shea-derived emollient ester is an excellent alternative to non-volatile silicones in light skin care and hair care formulations that demand a soft, silky texture and non-greasy after-feel. Lipex SheaLuxe TR has a similar sensory profile to low molecular weight dimethicone in terms of viscosity, spreadability, and skin feel during and after application. In addition to excellent functional benefits, its superior sustainability credentials set it apart from alkanes and other plant-based esters. As with many of these, Lipex SheaLuxe TR is readily biodegradable and uses renewable resources processed using low temperatures and non-toxic catalysts. But it goes one step further as a fully traceable, climatecompensated product.

LIPEX® SheaLuxe TR™ LIPEX® SheaLuxe TR™

Awards

Silver in the Green Ingredient Award category

INCGL25_Awards Logos_Green Ingredient_Silver

 

Gold for the most innovative ingredient

 

 

 

Cosmebio award

 

Silver in the best ingredient category

 

 

 

PBA24_Silver_Ingredient_web

 

Fact file

Appearance: clear liquid at 20°C

Viscosity: 7 mPa-s @ 20 °C

Refractive index: 1,452

Cloud point: 18 °C

Recommended applications: oil-based serums, premium skin and hair care, and make-up primers.

Typical use concentrations: 1-20% in emulsions, 5-75% in oil serums, body oils and anhydrous formulations, 3-5% in hair conditioners and scalp treatments, and 10-70% in hair oils.

Certifications and standards: NATRUE Compliant, COSMOS Approved, Climate-compensated, China Compliant, Vegan-friendly, ISO derived natural index 1, Halal and Kosher

Use in skin care applications

 

Typical use concentrations: 1–20% in emulsions, 5–75% in oil serums, body oils and anhydrous formulations
Recommended partner products: LIPEX® PreAct™, LIPEX® Cellect™, LIPEX® Bassol C™, LIPEX® Omega 3/6™, LIPEX® SheaLiquid TR™, LIPEX® SheaSoft TR™, Akosoft 36™

 

Features and benefits

 

  • Lipex SheaLuxe TR is produced using only shea kernels from a segregated supply chain, fully traceable to the AAK Kolo Nafaso direct sourcing program in West Africa, meeting consumer demand for ingredients that positively contribute to social, economic, and environmental well-being.
  • Lipex SheaLuxe TR is one of our climate-compensated shea products, which means we have calculated and offset emissions with Gold Standard and Fairtrade carbon credits generated by a FairClimateFund cookstove project in Burkina Faso that funds climate action in the shea supply base and directly improves the lives of local communities.
  • Lipex SheaLuxe TR is colorless and offers comparable sensory properties to low-viscosity dimethicones. Studies confirm that Lipex SheaLuxe TR and dimethicone show similar short- and long-term reductions in TEWL, and Lipex SheaLuxe TR also has a visible antisoaping effect, although not to the same extent as dimethicone.
  • It is miscible with plant-based oils and butters. Additionally, it is compatible and miscible with ethanol, making it suitable for sun care oils.
  • In sensory tests, Lipex SheaLuxe TR performed very similarly to dimethicone regarding lightness, dry and non-greasy residue, high spreadability, and a silky skin after-feel.

 

Sensory tests versus dimethicone 3mPa.s

 

In sensory tests, Lipex SheaLuxe TR performed very similarly to dimethicone regarding lightness, dry and non-greasy residue, high spreadability, and a silky skin after-feel.

 

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Use in hair care applications

 

Typical use concentrations: 10–70% in hair oils, 5–25% in conditioners and styling agents, 3–15% in scalp treatments
Recommended partner products: LIPEX® PreAct™, LIPEX® SheaTris™, LIPEX® Bassol C™, LIPEX® L’sens™, LIPEX® SheaClear™

 

Features and benefits

 

With its low viscosity and excellent sensory profile, Lipex SheaLuxe TR is a good fit for leave-on formulations, especially in oil-continuous ones that demand a light, dry, non-greasy feel.

 

  • It provides a visible shine to hair upon application and maintains it over time in a humid environment, whether tested on its own or in a hair oil formulation. Hair retains its shine better than with dimethicone 5mPa.s under the same conditions.
  • It has a visible anti-frizz effect immediately upon application and when tested over time in a highly humid environment, both on its own and in a hair oil formulation. It delivers superior anti-frizz properties compared to dimethicone 5mPa.s under the same conditions.
  • It delivers similar combability results to dimethicone 5mPa.s. On wet combing, Lipex SheaLuxe TR and dimethicone 5mPa.s reduce the force equally, while on dry combing

 

Combability test versus dimethicone 5mPa.s

 

 

Combability

Combability: percentage of reduction in the combing peakforce used to comb Caucasian hair tresses (15 grams) treated with 0.25 grams of LIPEX® SheaLuxe TR™ or with dimethicone 5mPa.s vs untreated.

 

 


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