Emollients – Emollient Esters

INCI: Ethyl Oleate, Ethyl Stearate

CAS#: 1456887-14-1

LIPEX® SheaLuxe TR™

LIPEX® SheaLuxe TR™ is a fully traceable shea-derived emollient ester – rich in Ethyl Oleate and Ethyl Stearate – designed as a high-performance alternative to low-viscosity silicones such as dimethicone. Ideal for light skin care and hair care formulations, it delivers a soft, silky texture with a non-greasy after-feel.

With a sensory profile comparable to low-molecular-weight dimethicone – offering similar viscosity, spreadability and skin feel during and after application – it combines outstanding performance with advanced sustainability.

Readily biodegradable and derived from renewable resources processed at low temperatures using non-toxic catalysts, LIPEX® SheaLuxe TR™ goes further by offering full traceability and setting a new benchmark beyond alkanes and conventional plant-based esters.

Fact file

Appearance: clear liquid at 20°C

Viscosity: 7 mPa-s @ 20 °C

Refractive index: 1,452

Cloud point: 18 °C

Recommended applications: oil-based serums, premium skin and hair care, and make-up primers.

Typical use concentrations: 1-20% in emulsions, 5-75% in oil serums, body oils and anhydrous formulations, 3-5% in hair conditioners and scalp treatments, and 10-70% in hair oils.

Certifications and standards: NATRUE Compliant, COSMOS Approved, Climate-compensated, China Compliant, Vegan-friendly, ISO derived natural index 1, Halal and Kosher

Features and benefits

Performance

For formulators, LIPEX® SheaLuxe TR™ - rich in Ethyl Oleate and Ethyl Stearate – delivers sensory properties comparable to low-viscosity dimethicones, offering a lightweight, silky feel and non-greasy after-touch. For marketing and innovation teams, it provides a natural dimethicone alternative that supports claims of high-performance, clean and sustainable formulations – bridging efficacy with consumer expectations.

Versatility

Formulators will appreciate its broad compatibility with plant-based oils and butters, allowing seamless incorporation into skincare, haircare, and color cosmetic products. Marketing and innovation teams can leverage its ability to enhance texture, spreadability and overall sensory appeal, enabling differentiated, trend-aligned formulations across multiple categories.

Sustainability

From a formulation perspective, LIPEX® SheaLuxe TR™ is fully traceable, climate-compensated, and derived from renewable resources processed with low temperatures and non-toxic catalysts. For marketing and innovation teams, these credentials align with growing consumer demand for eco-conscious, transparent, responsibly-sourced and readily-biodegradable beauty ingredients, supporting premium positioning and clean beauty claims.

Skincare

LIPEX® SheaLuxe TR™ is colorless and delivers sensory performance comparable to low-viscosity dimethicones.

Studies show that it provides similar short- and long-term reductions in transepidermal water loss (TEWL), along with a visible anti-soaping effect, though not to the same extent as dimethicone.

The ingredient is fully miscible with other plant-based oils and butters. This compatibility allows brands to create hybrid formulations that combine the benefits of shea with other natural oils, enhancing the overall performance and appeal of the product.
Sensory evaluations show that LIPEX® SheaLuxe TR™ performs like low-viscosity dimethicone in lightness and spreadability (see AAK sensory evaluation versus dimethicone 3mPa.s –data below), while providing a dry, non-greasy residue and a smooth, silky skin after-feel.

Sensory evaluations show that LIPEX® SheaLuxe TR™ performs like low-viscosity dimethicone in lightness and spreadability (see AAK sensory evaluation versus dimethicone 3mPa.s –data below), while providing a dry, non-greasy residue and a smooth, silky skin after-feel.

Sensory tests versus dimethicone 3mPa.s

Typical use concentrations:

1-20% in emulsions
5-75% in oil serums, body oils and anhydrous formulations

Recommended partner products:

Haircare

With its low viscosity and excellent sensory profile, LIPEX® SheaLuxe TR™ is ideal for leave-on hair formulations, including oil-continuous products that demand a light, dry, non-greasy feel.

It enhances hair appearance by providing a visible shine that lasts over time, even in humid conditions, whether applied on its own or as part of a hair oil formulation. Under the same conditions, hair treated with LIPEX® SheaLuxe TR™ retains shine better than with dimethicone 5 mPa·s.

In addition to shine, LIPEX® SheaLuxe TR™ delivers an immediate and lasting anti-frizz effect, outperforming dimethicone 5 mPa·s in high-humidity environments, both alone and in hair oil formulations.

It also supports excellent combability: in wet combing tests, LIPEX® SheaLuxe TR™ matches dimethicone 5 mPa·s in reducing combing force and provides comparable benefits on dry hair (combability test on 15g Caucasian hair tresses, 0.25g application – see combability graph below).

Percentage of reduction in the combing peakforce used to comb Caucasian hair tresses (15 grams) treated with 0.25 grams of LIPEX® SheaLuxe TR™ or with dimethicone 5mPa.s vs untreated.

Typical use concentrations:

10-70% in hair oils
5-25% in conditioners and styling agents
3-15% in scalp treatments

LIPEX® SheaLuxe TR™

Fact file